Helen McDaniel 
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Eels have been a staple of Japanese cuisine for thousands of years. But habitat loss, overfishing and pollution have reduced their numbers and sent prices soaring. Efforts to artificially replenish eel stocks have been hampered by high costs and their complex life cycles. Growing conservation efforts have also given rise to a flourishing black market, with 40-60 per cent of Japan’s eel supply estimated to come from illegal sources.
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